Textile materials and the production thereof



' y 1935. w. A, DICKlE ET AL 2,007,183

TEXTILE MATERIALS AND THE PRODUCTION THEREOF Filed Aug. 25, 1931 WILLIAMA- DICKIE ROBERT w- MONCHIEFF INVENTO HS ATTORN YS I-WISIINU AND IWINING.

Patented July 9, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE TEXTILE MATERIALS ANDTHE PRODUCTION THEREOF Application August 25,

1931, Serial No. 559,210

In Great Britain October 2, 1930 15 Claims.

This invention relates to threads of textile ma terials such ascellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose, artificialsilks of the reconstituted cellulose type, such as viscose,nitrocellulose, and cuprammonium silk, and natural filaments or fibres,such as silk, cotton, and wool. The object of the invention is toproduce threads having novel characteristics.

According to the invention, threads of such materials are coated atfrequent intervals along their length with a size of such a characterthat it can subsequently be removed from the threads.

The size may be applied to continuous filaments, and in this case may beemployed to hold the filaments together without the necessity ofimparting twist to the threads. Similarly, the addition of further twistto threads having but a slight degree of twist may be avoided by theintermittent coating of size. Such coatings may be formed on artificialfilaments continuously with their production and enable subsequenttwisting to be dispensed with both after spinning processes in which thethread is wound in untwisted form and after those in which such a slightamount of twist is imparted that further twisting is usually resortedto.

The coatings may, however, be applied to un twisted or slightly twistedthreads of natural or artificial filaments in bobbin-to-bobbin 01' otherwinding or twisting and winding operations. Further, yarns consisting ofstaple fibres of cellulose derivatives or cellulosic or natural silk orof natural fibres, or of mixtures of such fibres, may be intermittentlycoated with size, and such staple fibre yarns, as well as the continuousfilament yarns above described, may then be twisted to a high or veryhigh degree for the manufacture of fabrics exhibiting crepe and likeeffects. Instead, however, of the size being applied while the threadscontain little or no twist, there may be imparted a more or lesssubstantial proportion of the high degree of twist prior to sizingthreads which are to be used for this purpose. Thus, highly twistedyarns may be intermittently sized, after receiving the whole of theirtwist, or after receiving a moderate degree of twist which is afterwardsbrought up to the high degree desired.

When the threads have been made into fabric, the size is removed in anysuitable manner, e. g. by the usual scouring operation employed for thispurpose. In the case of fabrics containing intermittently sized,high-twist threads a crepe or cockled effect is obtained on removal ofthe size.

The size applied may be any which is commonly employed in sizing theparticular material of which the threads consist. For example, there maybe used sizes consisting of, say 5% potato starch; 15-25% feculose;1-3%tragon; gelatine; or gum arabic; with the addition if desired of one ormore softening agents such as glycerine or castor oil, e. g. 1% of each;or mixture of the above sizes may be used. The size may, however, be anyof those described in U. S. application Ser. No. 491,070 filed Oct. 24,1930, corresponding to British Pat. No. 348,589, these beingparticularly suitable for threads which are to be highly twisted. Thus,the size may be casein, egg albumen, rubber latex, or algin, or acellulose or cellulose derivative may be applied. The swellingtreatments described above or in U. S. applications S. No. 501,461 filedDecember 10, 1930, corresponding to British Patent No. 352,000, and S.No. 530,728 filed April 16, 1931, corresponding to British Patent No.356,233, may be applied to the intermittently sized threads, or tofabrics or articles containing such threads, so as to enhance the crepeor like effects obtained on scouring the fabrics.

The application of the size may take place at regular or irregularintervals of regular or irregular duration, but in the case ofapplications designed to avoid further twisting of the threads, it ispreferred to apply the size as regularly as possible so as to reduce toa minimum the amount of size necessary to give the required cohesion tothe threads.

Numerous methods may be adopted to apply the size at intervals on thethreads, it being most convenient to effect the operation while thethreads are travelling in a bobbin-to-bobbin, hank-to-bobbin, or otherwinding or twisting and winding operation, or during such operations asbeaming. Thus, there may be employed the means described in U. S. PatentNo. 1,909,192, for the application of liquids or pastes to travellingthreads. For example, the threads may receive the size from a Wick orother absorbing material, or from rollers, rods, or like devices,intermittent application being effected either by bringing the applyingmeans into contact with the threads or by causing the thread to bedisplaced into or out of contact with the applying means. These meansare especially suitable for treating artificial silk threadscontinuously with their production. Further means suitable for thispurpose are described in U. S. PatentNo. 1,907,898, according to whichsize is applied intermittently to threads as they are revolving roundand in contact with the circular edge of a guide member, such as the capof a cap-spinning device or the funnel guide used with a centrifugalspinning pot.

In a further method, the size is applied by means of a corrugated orfluted roller, which is supplied with the size, the thread passing overor round the roller or pressed between the roller and a plain roller,whereby the size is applied to the thread at points corresponding to thecorrugations or flutings in the roller. A furnisher roller may be usedto supply the corrugated or fluted roller from a trough containingsizing liquid or paste. This method is specially suitable for sizing aplurality of threads passing as a sheet over the corrugated or flutedroller in a bobbin-to-bobbin or similar winding operation.

After sizing, the threads are preferably dried relatively quickly, asfor example by passing them round or over one or more heated dryingdrums, over a heated plate, or through a heated atmosphere, a convenienttemperature for this operation being 65 C'.-85 C. Subsequently to thedrying operation the threads may be collected by winding on to bobbinsor the like. Twisting may be carried out simultaneously with the windingof the threads, but, when high twist is to be imparted, it is preferredto transfer the bobbins or the like to a twisting machine where the hightwist is put in as a separate operation.

When the intermittent sizing takes place continuously with theproduction of threads of continuous filaments, e. g. continuously withthe production of filaments of cellulose acetate by the dry orevaporative method, means may be provided if necessary to acceleratedrying of the sized threads before winding or twisting and winding.

The treatment may also be carried out in the course of abobbin-to-bobbin or other winding operation subsequent to .theproduction of the threads. A similar treatment may be used for sizingspun yarns containing staple lengths of natural fibres, such as silk orcotton, or of artificial filaments, such as fibres of cellulose acetateor other organic derivatives of cellulose or of regenerated cellulose,e. g. nitrocellulose, cuprammonium or viscose silk.

After sizing and twisting, the threads are woven into fabric which isthen subjected to an aqueous or other scouring treatment for the removalof the size. In the case of high-twist threads, the scouring bath maycontain, if desired, substances which cause the size to swell beforebeing removed. Thus for example where casein or other albumen is used assize. an aqueous scouring bath will produce the desired swelling effect.Further, if desired the swelling bath may be of such a nature as tocause the body of the filaments or fibres beneath the coating of size toswell. To this end the scouring bath may include swelling agents for thefilaments or fibres themselves. It will be appreciated of course thatthe swelling agent should be selected in any particular case accordingto the nature of the size used, and/or to the nature of the filaments.

It is preferred to effect the final drying of crepe and like fabrics inthe absence of any substantial tension.

The invention will now be described in greater detail with reference tothe accompanying drawing and to one method of applying the size, but itis to be understood that this description is given by way of exampleonly, and is in no respect limitative.

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic arrangement showing of one form of apparatusfor intermittently" sizing filaments.

Figure 2 is a similar showing of a modified arrangement including atwisting device for the sized filaments.

Referring to Figure 1, threads 3 containing filaments of celluloseacetate and having little or no twist are taken from the number ofbobbins 4 and are led parallel to each other from a spacing reed 5 to afluted roller 6 supplied with a suitable sizing material, such as gum,gelatine, starch or glue. The flutes may be of any desired width, e. g.,4 wide with A" spacing. The sizing material is fed to the fluted roller6 by means of a copper furnisher roller 1, adapted to run in contactwith the fluted roller and to dip into a trough 8 containing thematerial. The furnisher roller may be covered with flannel or likematerial to hold the size, or if desired, strips of flannel may beplaced round the ends of the furnisher roller, forming a resilientspacing strip between it and the fluted roller, so that a controlledamount of size is carn'ed over, as will be well understood.

After the application of the size, the threads are passed over one ormore drums 9 heated to a temperature of about 70 0., whereby the threadsare dried and the sizing is completed. The threads are then passedthrough a second spacing reed ID to a number of bobbins H and woundthereon, and are then ready for use in such textile operations aswarping, pirning, and circular, flat, or warp knitting.

When the threads are to be used in the production of crepe fabrics, thebobbins are taken to a twisting machine, by means of which a high degreeof twist is imparted to the threads. The degree of twist imparted to thecrepe threads may be similar to that commonly employed in the case ofcrepe threads of natural silk in the gum, for example a twist of from50-75 turns per inch may be utilized. A degree of twist of about 60turns per inch has been found to give highly satisfactory results. Ifdesired a highly twisted thread may be subsequently doubled with anotherthread or threads having the same or different twist in the same or in adifferent direction.

Referring to Figure 2, a thread I2 is twisted as it is drawn from arotating bobbin IS, the thread ballooning as shown at M as it passes toa guide eye l5 arranged above the bobbin. A similar size applying deviceto that shown in Figure 1, and comprising a fluted roller 6, a.furnisher roller 1 and a trough 8 is arranged to intersect the path ofthe thread and apply size at desired intervals. The thread passes fromthe roller 6 to a guide eye 16 by means of which it is led over thesurface of a heated plate I! where the size is dried. The intermittentlysized thread is wound on to a bobbin l8 which is driven by means of aroller I9 so as to draw the thread from the bobbin l3 and through theapparatus at a uniform linear speed, thus giving a uniform degree oftwisting.

The highly twisted crepe threads are then woven into fabrics in anysuitable manner, for example the weft alone may be wholly or partiallycomposed of such threads, or the warp also may contain them. It is foundconvenient in general however, to employ threads of relatively low twistin the warp, and to employ in the weft crepe threads having a left-handtwist and crepe threads having a right-hand twist. and prepared TWISTINGAND TWINING.

in accordance with the invention. The threads having right-hand twistand those having lefthand twist may be incorporated in any convenientmanner; for example pairs of weft threads of right-hand twist mayalternate with pairs of threads of left-hand twist.

The fabrics containing the intermittently sized threads are treated inaqueous scouring baths containing soaps of a weak alkaline nature,whereby the size is removed from the threads. In the case of crepefabrics, suitable swelling agents for the size or for the substances ofthe filaments of the threads may be included in the scouring bath ifdesired.

It is to be understood that the present invention includes within itsscope intermittently sized threads, whether such threads have little orno twist or have been twisted to a medium or high degree, and alsofabrics or articles made of or containing such threads, both before andafter removal of the size.

What we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Yarns of natural or artificial materials coated at frequent intervalsalong their length with a removable :12.

2. Yarns of continuous, natural or artificial filaments having little orno twist, and coated at frequent intervals along their length with aremovable size.

3. High twist yarns of natural or artificial filaments coated atfrequent intervals along their length with a removable size.

4. Bundles of continuous natural or artificial filaments coated atfrequent intervals along their length with a removable size, saidfilaments being twisted together.

5. Bundles of continuous natural or artificial filaments coated atfrequent intervals along their length with a removable size, saidfilaments being twisted together to at least 50 turns per inch.

6. Yarns containing spun fibres of natural or artificial filaments, saidyarns being coated at frequent intervals along their length with aremovable size.

7. Yarns containing filaments or fibres of an organic derivative ofcellulose and containing a removable size at frequent intervals alongtheir length.

8. Yarns containing filaments or fibres of cellulose acetate, andcontaining a removable size at frequent intervals along their length,said yarns being twisted to a high degree.

9. Yarns containing filaments or fibres of cellulose acetate, andcontaining a removable size at frequent intervals along their length,said yarns being twisted to at least 50 turns per inch.

10. Process for the treatment of yarns of natural or artificialmaterials comprising the steps of applying a removable sizing materialto the yarns at frequent intervals along their length, and twisting saidyarns.

11. Process for the production of intermittently sized yarns of organicderivatives of cellulose comprising the steps of applying a removablesizing material to the yarns at frequent intervals along their lengthand twisting the yarns.

12. Process for the production of intermittently sized yarns ofcellulose acetate comprising the steps of applying a removable sizingmaterial to the yarns at frequent intervals along their length andtwisting the yarns.

13. Process for the production of crepe fabrics, which comprisesapplying a removable sizing material to yarns at frequent intervalsalong their length, imparting a high twist to the yarns, weaving theyarns into fabric and removing the sizing material from the fabric.

14. Process for the production of crepe fabrics containing yarns oforganic derivatives of cellulose, which comprises applying a removablesizing material to the yarns at frequent intervals along 5

